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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.